A Woodsy Toss in the Pan: Mushroom Hash
Russ Parsons, LA Times
1 pound mixed mushrooms (portabello, cremini, maitake, etc.)
3 tablespoons butter, divided
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon minced parsley
1/2 cup white wine
6 sprigs fresh thyme
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 1/2 pounds mixed small potatoes (fingerlings, boilers, etc.)
1/2 teaspoon sherry vinegar
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Wipe the mushrooms clean, trim any hard stems and cut them into
roughly almond-size pieces. Try to use a mixture of sizes of mushrooms
so you get a diversity of shapes. The small ones can be left whole,
those that are a little bigger can be cut in half, and so on.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter in a skillet over medium-high heat
until the foam has subsided and the butter turns a light hazelnut
color. Add the mushrooms, sprinkle with half a teaspoon of salt, cover
tightly and cook, tossing occasionally until the mushrooms begin to
glisten and give up their moisture, about 3 minutes. Remove the cover,
add the garlic and the parsley, raise the heat to high, and continue
cooking, stirring constantly until the mushrooms are richly aromatic
and soft, but not flaccid, about 3 minutes.
3. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl. Add the white wine to the
skillet. Cook over high heat until it reduces to a syrup, about 2
minutes. Strip the leaves from the thyme between your thumbnail and
finger and add them to the syrup along with the cream. Cook, stirring
to incorporate into a smooth liquid. Add the mushrooms back to the
sauce, toss to coat well and set aside.
4. Cut the potatoes into half-inch pieces and steam in a tightly
covered pot over rapidly boiling water until they are just tender,
about 15 minutes.
5. Warm the mushroom mixture over medium heat and add the potatoes as
soon as they are done. Do not let the potatoes cool or they won't
absorb the flavors. Add the sherry vinegar and stir everything
together. Adjust the salt seasoning (it will definitely need more after
you've added the potatoes) and season with a grinding of fresh black
pepper. (The dish can be prepared to this point up to 1 hour in
6. Before serving, warm the mixture through over medium-high heat, add
the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter and stir to mix well.